pmk pyro
film development chart |
Caution: PMK Pyro is POISONOUS and is absorbed by bare skin! Handle with extreme care! Avoid inhaling fumes! Always wear protective clothing, including eye goggles and non-porous gloves! Read THE BOOK OF PYRO by Gordon Hutchings, before using this product. For products contact
Eight Elm Photo.
PMK Pyro Developer = 1 part A + 2 parts B + 100 parts Water Presoak Film > Developer > Stop Bath > Fixer > Used Developer > Wash
2) Developer - Agitate every 15 seconds during development. Inadequate agitation may result in streaked negatives. Tray processing is NOT recommended. Tanks ensure consistent results.
3) Stop bath - Diluted to at least ¼ normal strength. 4 minutes in plain water is ok for normal or plus times.
4) Fix - 10 minutes using only a non-hardening fixer.
5) Used Developer - Agitate every 30 seconds for 2 - 4 minutes after fix to induce stain.
6) Wash Film - 30 to 45 minutes (stain intensifies during the wash).
PMK Pyro is a fine grain pyrogallol developer with which extremely sharp negatives with beautiful highlight detail may be created. The yellowish stain it produces, when combined with the bluish light from a cold lamp enlarger permits the 0 filter to darken highlight areas without affecting shadows.
The 5 filter will darken shadow areas without affecting highlights.
I have obtained excellent results with Agfa's APX 100, 120 film. Some newer emulsions do not stain as well as Agfa 100, although Ilford SFX 200 appears to be an exception. Some older films such as Kodak's 35mm Tech Pan do not stain well. There also appears to be a difference between 35mm, 120 and 4x5 sheets of the same film.
The following developing times are not absolute, and are given for normal development at 70°F. For each degree of increased temperature, reduce developing time by 4%.
|
FILM & LINKS | RATING | MINUTES | STAIN |
Agfa | |||
APX 25 | 16 | 11 | Poor |
APX 25 | 25 | 10 | Poor |
APX 100 | 80 | 14 | |
APX 100 | 100 | 13 | 120 Good,
35mm Poor |
APX 400 | 200 | 16 | |
APX 400 | 400 | 14 ¾ | |
Forte | |||
Fortepan 400 | 400 | 14 | 4x5 Good |
Fuji | |||
Neopan 100 Acros | 50 | 11 | |
Neopan 400 | 400 | 12 | |
Neopan 1600 | 1600 | 12 | |
Ilford | |||
Delta 100 Pro | 100 | 10 | |
Delta 400 Pro | 400 | 13 | |
Delta 3200 Pro | 800 | 15 | |
Delta 3200 Pro | 1600 | 14 | 35mm Good |
Delta 3200 Pro | 3200 | 9 | |
FP4 Plus | 80 -100 | 10 | Good |
FP4 Plus | 125 | 9 | Good |
HP5 Plus | 320 | 13 | Good |
HP5 Plus | 400 | 11 | Good |
Pan F Plus | 32 | 8 | Poor |
Pan F Plus | 50 | 7 | Poor |
SFX 200 | 200 | 9 | Good |
Kodak | |||
High-Speed Infrared | 200 | 12 | |
Plus-X Pan | 80 | 9 | |
Technical Pan | 25 | 8 | Poor |
Konica | |||
Infrared 750 | 16 | 10 | |
Infrared 750 | 32 | 9 | Poor |
Minus-X Development (as
per Gordon Hutchings)
To photograph a dark scene
that includes a window in full sunlight with up to ± 20 stops of
contrast;
1) Meter and place only the low values, adding 3 stops to the exposure.
2) Reduce the normal film developing time by 50% |
WebPage Copyright © 1998- G. Morris Photography |