pmk pyro
film development chart
Caution:  PMK Pyro is POISONOUS and is absorbed by bare skin! Handle with extreme care!  Avoid inhaling fumes!  Always wear protective clothing, including eye goggles and non-porous gloves!  Read THE BOOK OF PYRO by Gordon Hutchings, before using this product.  For products contact  Eight Elm Photo.


PMK Pyro Developer  =  1 part A   +   2 parts B  +   100 parts Water

Presoak Film   >   Developer    >    Stop Bath    >    Fixer    >   Used Developer    >    Wash


1)  Presoak - 2 to 4 minutes. Dry films placed in PMK Pyro will immediately stick together.

2)  Developer - Agitate every 15 seconds during development. Inadequate agitation may result in streaked negatives. Tray processing is NOT recommended. Tanks ensure consistent results.

3)  Stop bath - Diluted to at least ¼ normal strength. 4 minutes in plain water is ok for normal or plus times.

4)  Fix - 10 minutes using only a non-hardening fixer.

5)  Used Developer - Agitate every 30 seconds for 2 - 4 minutes after fix to induce stain.

6)  Wash Film - 30 to 45 minutes (stain intensifies during the wash).


The Stained Negative:

PMK Pyro is a fine grain pyrogallol developer with which extremely sharp negatives with beautiful highlight detail may be created. The yellowish stain it produces, when combined with the bluish light from a cold lamp enlarger permits the 0 filter to darken highlight areas without affecting shadows.

The 5 filter will darken shadow areas without affecting highlights.

I have obtained excellent results with Agfa's APX 100, 120 film. Some newer emulsions do not stain as well as Agfa 100, although Ilford SFX 200 appears to be an exception. Some older films such as Kodak's 35mm Tech Pan do not stain well. There also appears to be a difference between 35mm, 120 and 4x5 sheets of the same film.

The following developing times are not absolute, and are given for normal development at 70°F. For each degree of increased temperature, reduce developing time by 4%.

FILM & LINKS RATING MINUTES STAIN
Agfa
APX 25 16 11 Poor
APX 25 25 10 Poor
APX 100 80 14
APX 100 100 13 120 Good,
35mm Poor
APX 400 200 16
APX 400 400 14 ¾  
Forte
Fortepan 400 400 14 4x5 Good
Fuji
Neopan 100 Acros 50 11
Neopan 400 400 12
Neopan 1600 1600 12
Ilford
Delta 100 Pro 100 10
Delta 400 Pro 400 13
Delta 3200 Pro 800 15
Delta 3200 Pro 1600 14 35mm Good
Delta 3200 Pro 3200 9
FP4 Plus 80 -100 10 Good
FP4 Plus 125 9 Good
HP5 Plus 320 13 Good
HP5 Plus 400 11 Good
Pan F Plus 32 8 Poor
Pan F Plus 50 7 Poor
SFX 200  200 9 Good
Kodak
High-Speed Infrared 200 12
Plus-X Pan 80 9
Technical Pan 25 8 Poor
Konica
Infrared 750 16 10  
Infrared 750 32 9 Poor
Minus-X Development (as per Gordon Hutchings)

To photograph a dark scene that includes a window in full sunlight with up to ± 20 stops of contrast;

1)  Meter and place only the low values, adding 3 stops to the exposure.

2)  Reduce the normal film developing time by 50%

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